Madi
Smith
H-Block
December
16, 2013
I
pledge MS
Both the Islamic and Byzantine
Empires were masterful kingdoms in their relative time periods. As advanced in
math and sciences as each were, they were also masterful craftsmen, making some
of the finest jewelry of that time period. Necklaces and earring were only two
of the most popular types of jewelry, and each empire had a different style of
decoration based upon their values. Islamic jewelry is a combination or
geometric art and techniques used to created the smooth and beaded texture of
the necklace featured below. The necklace features gold beads formed from gold
plate that was cut and carved; between each golden bead is a polished and
drilled gemstone that was used to add color to the overall piece.
Like Islamic jewelry, ancient
Byzantium jewelry was mainly made of gold. Each civilization thought gold was
the most beautiful out of the three metals melded into jewelry. Byzantium
jewelers were widely known for the iconographic pieces that appeared throughout
the kingdom. The necklace featured below is thought to have been used by a
priest, or someone of church importance. The necklace features a gold cross
with smaller circular plates formed by using repousse and implanting jewels in
the center of each. The craftsmanship of the necklace proves to be much greater
than that of the Islamic craftsmen. The gold is preserved to a greater quality
and the gemstones are still securely in place.
Islamic
·
Islam’s did not allow images on art
o
Iranians modified animal art to conform to Islam
o
absence of human imagery in Islamic jewelry until
the 18th century
o
reflects the dictates of its religious art
·
Geometric shapes/patterns very common
·
Muhammad’s name in scripted on most everything
·
Gold platting
·
sheet gold
o
worked in repousse (a technique for creating
relief in gold)
o
granulation (decoration of the surface with tiny
spheroids or balls)
o
filigree (wire made into decorative
configurations)
o
partial or full gilding
o
niello (a black metallic compound applied to
engraved or depressed areas and fused with heat)
o
·
Based on era and location of empire
o
The designs influenced by culture of the time
period
§
Earliest ex: beads and rings
·
Crafted in Iran with largely Roman roots
§
9-12th centuries from Iran, Egypt and
Syria
·
Excellent designs, simple and subtle decoration
·
Simple life expressed through jewelry cuts
§
18-19th centuries in India
·
Flourished, expensive taste, self indulgence
§
11-13th centuries
·
Light weight [gold] feather earrings
·
pierced metal circles, baskets, hoops or
hemispheres, combining twisted wires, granules of gold, filigree and tiny gems
·
Types of Jewelry
o
Pendants
o
Necklaces
o
Earrings
o
Beads
o
Pins
o
Bracelets
o
Rings
o
Head ornaments
o
Arm bands and anklets
·
Typically made of gold bronze or silver
·
Cast or made of sheet metal
Byzantium:
·
Iconic images very popular
o
Images of God, virgin Mary, and sayings as such:
§
"Because you alone, my God, have inhabited
me with Hope."
§
"Lord, because you are God, save me."
o
Motifs like the peacock represented stauts
·
most characteristic jewelry technique of the
Byzantine period was opus interrasile
o
“pierced work.”
o
ntricately chiseled gold combined with embossing
o
made finished gold piece look extremely fluid.
o
Gemstones
§
Polished, drilled or carved as a cameo or
engraved as a seal
·
Iconography
o
More fully
characterized by Christian iconography
o
Worn for protection or ornament
o
Encolpion-invention of the Byz. Jewelry
o
not only an outward symbol of faith/wealth but served
as badge of office
§
Fibulae, rings, and belt buckles
·
Jewelry transformation
o
Light to heavy
o
Small to large
o
Simple to complex
MLA
Citations
·
"Islamic." Encyclopedia Britannica Online.
Ed. Editors Encyclopedia Britannica. Encyclopedia Britannica, n.d. Web. 14 Dec.
2013. <http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/303500/jewelry/14087/Islamic>.
·
Price, Judith. "Legend Art Beads:
SilverBeads, WoodenBeads, BeadCaps, Clasps, Toggles, Earwires, Charms,
Chandelier: Ancient Islamic Jewelry." Legend
Art Beads: SilverBeads, WoodenBeads, BeadCaps, Clasps, Toggles, Earwires,
Charms, Chandelier: Ancient Islamic Jewelry. Legendartbeads, n.d. Web. 14
Dec. 2013. <http://blog.legendartbeads.com/2013/02/ancient-islamic-jewelry.html>.
·
"The Islamic Art Collection at the Los
Angeles County Museum of Art, LACMA." The Islamic Art Collection at the
Los Angeles County Museum of Art, LACMA. N.p., n.d. Web. 14 Dec. 2013. <
http://www.lacma.org/islamic_art/ema.htm>.
·
Price, Judith. "Legend Art Beads:
SilverBeads, WoodenBeads, BeadCaps, Clasps, Toggles, Earwires, Charms,
Chandelier: Ancient Jewely Byzantium." Legend Art Beads: SilverBeads,
WoodenBeads, BeadCaps, Clasps, Toggles, Earwires, Charms, Chandelier: Ancient
Jewely Byzantium. Legendartbeads, n.d. Web. 14 Dec. 2013. < http://blog.legendartbeads.com/2013/02/ancient-jewely-byzantium.html>.
·
Reif, Rita. "ANTIQUES; TRACING THE THREAD OF
ISLAMIC JEWELRY." The New York Times. The New York Times, 29 May 1983.
Web. 14 Dec. 2013. < http://www.nytimes.com/1983/05/29/arts/antiques-tracing-the-thread-of-islamic-jewelry.html>.
·
"ART HISTORY SPOT." ART HISTORY SPOT.
Admin, 12 Feb. 2010. Web. 14 Dec. 2013. < http://www.arthistoryspot.com/2010/02/byzantine-jewelry/>.
·
Khalili, Nasser D. Islamic Art and Culture: A
Visual History. Woodstock: Overlook, 2006. Print.
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